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Shaw, A., 2009.

CRAFTING THE TECHNOLOGICAL: GANSEYS AND WHOLEGARMENT KNITTING, PhD Thesis

Output Type:Other form of assessable output
Publication:PhD Thesis

The launch of Wholegarment© machinery/technology by the Japanese company Shima Seiki in 1990 signified a paradigm shift for the way that garments could be manufactured.
Up to this point, knitwear manufacture had involved a series of operations, all of which added to the eventual cost of a garment. The research builds upon the concept of ‘seamless garments’ and utilises a design and craft practice approach to explore new possibilities for making clothes and examine the shift of focus of the cost from manufacture to design. The garments are given 'value' through post-knitting craft proceses and and an emotional connection between designer and wearer is made through storytelling.
In order to do this, data has been gathered from museum collections of early examples of seamless garments and this has been combined with a personal design vision, which is inspired by the landscape and cultural heritage of the fishing communities of the North East coast. Removed from the seasonal constraints fashion can impose, new ideas and concepts for making clothes have been developed.
The cultural context of the designs is central to the research and the importance of craft and the vision of the individual in post mass-production fashion are also explored.

The Main aims of the research are:

• To explain and conduct the research in a highly visual way.

• To explore the relationship between historical and contemporary seamless garments.

• To use a personal design vision beyond the restraints of seasonal fashion to test the potential of the new technology.

• To identify and build upon a new visual vocabulary which the limitations of the technology dictate.

• To identify new value structures with reference to Mass Production/Craft/Technology (Post Mass-Production Fashion).

• To open up and develop new approaches in garment manufacture and design and to indicate possible pathways for future development; ultimately a new concept beyond seamless knitting can be constructed.

• To indicate possible implications for design education.

In addition to fulfilling these stated aims the project also seeks to answer the following research questions:
What does WGT reveal about:
Craft?
Mass-produced clothes?
The future of design-led fashion product?

The findings were disseminated by thesis and exhibition.

Exhibition 8Exhibition 8
Exhibition 7Exhibition 7
Exhbition 6Exhbition 6
Exhibition 5Exhibition 5
Exhibition 4Exhibition 4
Exhibtion 2Exhibtion 2
Exhibition 1Exhibition 1
lobster kreel-washed ganseys, Runswick Baylobster kreel-washed ganseys, Runswick Bay
Penny Hedge ganseys, WhitbyPenny Hedge ganseys, Whitby
Deep-fried ganseyDeep-fried gansey
Shirt/ganseyShirt/gansey
Staithes bonnet ganseyStaithes bonnet gansey
Latex-dipped gansey with Sou'westerLatex-dipped gansey with Sou'wester
Sailor gansey 2Sailor gansey 2
Sailor gansey 1Sailor gansey 1
Felted anchor ganseyFelted anchor gansey
Herring lassie ganseyHerring lassie gansey
Grandad shirt ganseyGrandad shirt gansey
Two ganseys felted together 1Two ganseys felted together 1
Grafted fairisle ganseyGrafted fairisle gansey
Sea-washed ganseySea-washed gansey
Wholegarment ganseys 2Wholegarment ganseys 2
Wholegarment ganseys 1Wholegarment ganseys 1
Shima 3Shima 3
Shima 2Shima 2
Shima 1Shima 1
Historical seamless garments 4Historical seamless garments 4
Historical seamless garments 3Historical seamless garments 3
historical seamless garments 2historical seamless garments 2
Historical seamless garments 1Historical seamless garments 1
drawing 6drawing 6
drawing 5drawing 5
Drawing 4Drawing 4
drawing 3drawing 3
drawing 2drawing 2
drawing 1drawing 1